Food & Restaurants

As regards Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, the Los Angeles restaurant scene has undergone, in the last two decades, nothing short of a revolution. The number of Italian restaurants has mushroomed, especially in the past five years, and the influence of Italian cuisine on California cuisine, in general, has been so profound that some foods have lost their Italian uniqueness to enter mainstream food habits. We are undergoing presently an extreme case of multiplication, resulting in complex restaurant geneaologies: as Italian waiters are playing musical chairs, chefs leave restaurants to open their own (e.g., Gino Angelini, chef who launched Vincenti, and is now owner of Angelini Osteria; the chef behind Angelini Osteria, opens his own La Terza, etc.), and restaurateur dynasties appear. A successful restaurant spawns a more casual locale, wine bars, or cafès, thereby providing a full line of eating establishments under one banner (e.g., Celestino Drago and the Drago restaurant dynasty in the area, See: NOTABLE CHEFS; Locanda Veneta opens Café Veneto, and so forth). Italian food is strong and shows no sign of waning (search the Los Angeles Times database with keyword “Italian” and “California” and more than 3/4 of the 1,200 entries will likely relate to food, and the majority of these to restaurant reviews!). California agriculture and farmers’ markets, cheese manufacturers, specialty food and appliance importers, are reflecting these changes. As a result, ingredients that were once rare are now widely available: mozzarella di bufala, espresso coffee, radicchio, finocchio, arugola, fresh pasta, polenta, prosciutto, blood oranges, etc.

In the 1980’s, a typical restaurant pattern was for a group of investors to hire over an Italian chef for the start up phase of an upscale (often Westside) restaurant operation, often touted as “Northern Italian.” An infusion of Italian master chefs came to Los Angeles in this way. They both contributed to a new Italian cuisine for Americans, and helped change established Italian American restaurants to reflect newer Italian foods and trends. Bakeries such as Il Fornaio were, at the same time, redefining the meaning of Italian bread (and pastries) for Angelenos.

Some old guard Italian Americans restaurants (e.g., red and white checkered tablecloths, wicker wine-flasks, etc.) began showing signs of change and renewal as a result of the new Italian food trend. Red sauces typically based on canned tomatoes, tomato paste, and garlic, lightened up, as fresher ingredients and a lighter touch marked Italian food more generally. Often the only remaining cues are aural: the voice of Frank Sinatra, Caruso, Opera (rather than strains of Italian pop music or Andrea Boccelli) as dinner music. We witnessed such a reaction against Italian American restaurants (identified predominantly with southern-Italian-based cuisines) that even mozzarella-in-carrozza might be labeled as ‘fine “Northern” cuisine.’ Such nonsense was likely designed to lure poorly informed American public to the spare, chic, and more costly establishments. The rapid realignment of affiliations going on fed into the anti-South and anti-immigrant sentiments widespread in Italian culture and shared by non-Italians. Today, the public seems more savvy. Some Post-moderns search out New York-Chicago-, or other old Italian American restaurants consciously, while at the same time beginning to understand the differences between Italian regional cuisines. Today, Italian restaurants are further enriching the range of foods understood as Italian and to prominently name regional food traditions that are Sicilian, Venetian, Roman, Piedmontese, Neapolitan, and so forth. Regionalism is definitely on the rise. Yet at times, this “new” Italian cuisine sometimes overlays a stratum of older Italian American cuisine.

A survey of Italians in all phases of the food industry: from wineries and food producers, food distributors and importers, to markets, delis, cooks, and restaurateurs would reveal the long presence of Italians in this sector, yet awaits the historians’ attention.…

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Clubs, Associations & Societies


Overview
Given the vast distances which separate the Italians of Los Angeles, their recent reluctance to cluster (there are no “Little Italies” here), and the relative lack of ‘symbolic’ spaces, Italian American associations have provided a crucial vehicle for the expression of Italian ethnicity in Los Angeles. It is informally estimated that only 10% of Italian Americans are active in such associations and that within associations, such as Sons of Italy and Unico National, approximately 85% – 90% of the membership are American-born Italian. While the large pan-Italian American associations claim the largest number of 2nd-, 3rd- and 4th-generation Italian Americans, the smaller regional and town clubs (often bearing a saint’s name) have a higher percentage of Italian-born Italian Americans who provide some cultural continuity and renewal. This may suggest that two historical phases are simultaneously present: the narrowly regional affiliations of those recently-arrived as versus the pan-national perspective of those with remoter ties to Italy. Italian-born immigrants, perhaps more secure in their cultural identity, seem less inclined to join associations than American-born Italians, although the strong and continuous presence of Pugliese at Casa Italiana contradict this generalization. There are nonetheless many and fluctuating Italian associations in Los Angeles, ranging from religious societies to civic, cultural, and philanthropic organizations, to professional associations and. Together, these clubs and associations generate almost all Italian “grassroots” events in Los Angeles.

Many Italians belong to not one but several associations at the same time, often including pan-Italian religious organizations (such as the widely-popular Italian Catholic Federation) or civic organizations (such as the Sons of Italy), along with membership in one of the more intimate regional or town clubs (recently returned to vogue). In fact, the current founding or resurrection of regional clubs e.g., for Piedmontesi, for Veneti, for Sicilians, suggests there is a return to cultural specificity. There is no need to belabor here the depth and richness of regional diversity within Italy. This necessarily resonates within the range of associations in Los Angeles. On the other hand, a non-sectarian social club such as the Garibaldina (heavily Piedmontese in origin, but now embracing all Italians) remains very popular (900 members strong, with a 300-person waiting list in the late 1980s). Regional clubs (e.g., Arba Sicula, Fameja Veneta, Piemontesi nel Mondo) are social yet at the same time have a strong interest in their traditional cultures. Arba Sicula (=’Sicilian Dawn’), the national Sicilian organization, has locally spun off at least one group which is also dedicated to Sicilian culture (Sicilia Culturale). The smaller, locally focussed organizations carry as their rallying points town names (Canneto Colony of Saints, Bosconero Society), saints’ names concealing local origins (Madonna di Costantinopoli and the San Trifone Society both formed by Bari-area Italians from Puglia), and overt regional names (Fameja Veneta, Arba Sicula, Piemontesi nel Mondo).

However they may address their benefactions, the majority of the clubs are social and tend to revolve around the Dinner Dance which forms the primary mode of Italian American socialization. The ‘heritage’ portion of their activities is minor by comparison. For instance, the Garibaldina holds an annual Italian Night and a Heritage Day as well, with staged folkdance and music. As part of their monthly dinner dances they also have a ‘heritage’ program (e.g., a member’s slide show on a recent “roots” trip to Italy).

Socially aspiring Italian Americans appear to favor more overtly Cultural (with a capital C) associations (e.g., Patrons of Italian Culture, the Italian Heritage Culture Foundation) for whom Italy is generally equated with high culture and not traditional folkways (although the Italian Heritage Culture Foundation and the Istituto Italiano di Cultura did sponsor the publication of the anthology Italian Traditional Song in 1989, edited by Luisa Del Giudice), and the Patrons have put on St. Josephís Tables. These associations attract non-Italian members as well.

There are national Italian organizations (Sons of Italy, Unico National, Italian Catholic Federation), and professional associations (e.g., American Educators of Italian Origin United, American Italian Dental Association). The focus of Italian American associations has evolved over the century of Italians’ presence in Los Angeles. Several of the largest, such as Sons of Italy and Unico National, Italian Catholic Federation, go back to the 1920’s. The majority of the organizations were formed in the 30’s and 40’s and many of these were primarily mutual aid and benevolent societies created for aiding newly-arrived immigrants, arranging relief for victims of the Depression, earthquakes, wars and so forth. Many of these societies formed around a hometown’s patron saint’s name, making the celebration of that saint a focus of their activities, along with the express purpose of raising funds for charities at home in Italy (e.g., an orphanage or hospital). In those nationalistic and overtly xenophobic years the clubs also served the purpose of tangibly displaying the Italian community’s contributions to American society. Once Italians entered the mainstream, professional associations for doctors, dentists, lawyers, educators were formed in tandem (even Italian priests have their association called Fraternitas). Only confidence and security in one’s own cultural identity furthermore could have spawned a club by the name of the DB Club (=Dago Bastards Club, if not a spoof!), mainly a social and charitable organization that sponsors golf and bocce tournaments. The associations of the 70’s and 80’s instead are regional clubs and cultural associations. Philanthropic concerns are part of almost all Italian groups from the professional to the social clubs, as funds raised go to various charities.

While those living through WWII in America wanted to mainstream quickly (recall that the Fascist sympathies of some organizations and even Italian newspapers led to their official suppression, as “co-belligerance” became a serious issue), now there is a reevaluation of what was lost and an attempt to recover some of it. Recently formed regional clubs have actively sought to revive and recreate more authentic home traditions: Arba Sicula had its first St. Joseph’s Table in 1989; the Piemontesi nel Mondo revived the post-Easter picnic outing (actually observed all through Italy), called Pasquetta (=`Little Easter’). Second and third generation Italians are seeking Italian lessons in greater numbers and making trips to Italy, and young Italian clubs do form. Renewed interest in Italian traditions of the latter generations, but also among the more recently arrived, has occasioned new or renewed clubs (the Italian American Club of San Pedro for instance). Many of these clubs have wider California networks, linking San Diego and Santa Barbara Italian communities to Los Angeles.

Of the various strata of Italians mentioned above, the earliest group of Italians is best represented in the Garibaldina, while the 2nd group, directly from Italy, center around their town and regional clubs. The 3rd group (also often immigrating from Italy but more often from the eastern American states) has frequently infused new life into many of the organizations. Having carried with them from the Little Italies of the East Coast memories of festivities and Italian cohesiveness, (together with more marked and painful memories of historic discrimination), they have often sought to recreate forms of traditional life in Los Angeles (See: FOLK FESTIVAL, San Gennaro). Many associations provide a blend of Italians however and a sense of continuity frequently exists between the older, more Americanized, non-Italian speakers, to the more traditional and Italian-speaking immigrants from North (and South) America, as well as directly from Italy.

The “Federated”: Founded in 1947, the Federated Italo-Americans of Southern California is an umbrella organization which unites the many clubs and societies associated with Italian heritage in Southern California. As stated in its by-laws, the Federated was organized “to gather the strength of all Italo-American organizations and unify their efforts.” It brings together community leaders to plan celebrations of major events (e.g. Italy’s Republic Day, Columbus Day, See: CELEBRATIONS) to exchange and share ideas, to honor outstanding individuals and organizations, and to preserve Italian heritage.…

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NORTHERN ITALIAN CLUBS

Piemontesi nel Mondo of Southern California (Est. 1988)
P.O. Box 943
Montebello, CA 90640-0943
Email: PNMSoCal@yahoo.com

Bosconero Society (Est. 1946)
Pres.: Mario Zanotti
913 Domingo Drive
San Gabriel, CA 91775
Tel: (626) 289-1358
Liguria

Liguri nel Mondo
Roby Nocco
13512 Studebaker Road
Norwalk, CA 90650
Trentino-Alto Adige

Trentino Club of Southern California
Pres.: Leo Zamboni
3008 Dow Avenue.
90278 Redondo Beach, CA.
E-mail:leo.zamboni@verizon.net

Secretary: Ann Gobber
9247 Blackley St
Temple City CA 91780 – 3137
E-mail:M782000@cs.com

Veneto

Famiglia Triveneta di Los Angeles
Pres.: Piergiorgio Luciani
1917 11th Street – Suite n. 1
Santa Monica, CA 90401

La Fameja Veneta
c/o Com.It.Es
10350 Santa Monica Blvd., #210
Los Angeles, CA 90025
Tel: (310) 691-8907
Fax: (310) 557-1217
E-mail: comites@comitesla.net…

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Community Sites & Meeting Places

By far the most frequently used sites by Italians in Los Angeles for social and cultural events are Casa Italiana (in Chinatown) and the Istituto Italiano di Cultura (the Italian Cultural Institute, Westwood). While the first tends to host banquets, Italian associations’ monthly meetings, St. Joseph’s Day Tables (See: CELEBRATION, Folk Festival), patron feast days, and Opera productions, the Westwood institute, the IIC (the Cultural office of the Italian Government abroad) promotes Italian (rather than Italian American) cultural activity and caters to a Westside crowd. The first is generally associated with the established Italian Americans community while the later with a more contemporary Italy-centric cultural milieu.

A Bit of History: The Scalabrini Order and the Italian Community. The Missionaries of St. Charles (Carlo Borromeo, 1538-1584; Giovanni Battista Scalabrini, 1839-1905), known as the Scalabrini Fathers or Scalabrinians (an order, founded in 1887 to serve the needs of immigrants, and today continues to serve migrants and refugees), have provided leadership on many fronts within the Italian community, besides the strictly religious. Since 1972, they have administered St. Peter’s Italian Church, focusing on social and cultural programs, as well as the pastoral. They managed l’Italo-Americano for decades

(See: MEDIA, Publications, Newspapers), organized Italian classes, encouraged traditional patron saint day observances and other traditions. Under the energetic leadership of Father Donanzan, they were, in the 1970s and 1980s, one of the major unifying forces in the local Italian community. The Scalabrinians undertook the rebuilding of Casa Italiana, increased attendance at St. Peter’s Italian Church (the only national parish in the diocese), and built Villa Scalabrini (the retirement center for Italian seniors in Sun Valley; cf. monument to the Italian immigrant). The fundraising campaigns for these projects are remembered as rare occasions of Italians rallying behind a common cause.

(see: INSTITUTIONS, Italian Government Offices)
Churches, St. Peter’s Italian Catholic Church in downtown Los Angeles, and Mary Star of the Sea Church, San Pedro, are primary sites for religiously-related events (See: RELIGION; CLUBS & ASSOCIATIONS, Religious Associations). But Casa Italiana also hosts Opera productions, meetings, dinner dances of the various organizations, from the Sons of Italy and the Italian Lawyers Association, to the Federated Italo-Americans of Southern California.

St. Peter’s Italian Catholic Church:
Detail of altar, St. Peter (a “fisher of
men”) in a boat
St. Peter’s Church (& Casa Italiana)
1051 N. Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Tel: 323-225-8119
Fax: 323-225-0085
Donna Angiuli, Administrator

(See: RELIGION: St. Peter’s Italian Catholic Church)
Mary Star of the Sea Church
870 8th St.
San Pedro, CA 90731
Tel: (310) 833-3541
Fax: (310) 833-9254
email: office@marystar.org

Recently other centers of social and cultural activity have been gaining prominence. The Historic Italian Hall Foundation (El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historical Monument), has recently restored the Italian Hall (historically, the social center of the early Italian community), and continues to work on the project of creating an Italian American Museum in the heart of Los Angeles.

A bequest by George L. Graziadio, with funds from other local organizations, (e.g., Frank De Santis, former OSIA president, see: CLUBS AND ORGANIZATIONS), made possible the endowment of a Chair in Italian Studies at California State University, Long Beach. The Graziadio Center for Italian Studies organizes community events at the University—a rare meeting of town and gown among Italians!

A few Italian organizations have their own meeting places which serve a variety of social and program needs: Orange County American Italian Renaissance Foundation, the Italian American Club of San Pedro, the Garibaldina Society.

A Bit of History: Italian Hall in the Heart of the Pueblo.The official inauguration of the Italian Hall (est. 1907) as the first Italian American Museum in Los Angeles was held during the summer of 2004. Italian Hall, still undergoing repairs and restoration, is now part of the city-owned El Pueblo de Los Angeles in downtown Los Angeles near the art deco train station, Union Station, and next to Olvera Street, a prime tourist destination. See:

The George L. Graziadio Center for Italian Studies
California State University, Long Beach
1250 Bellflower Blvd.
Long Beach, CA 90840-2406
Tel: (562) 985-4111
Fax: 562-985-2406

Historic Italian Hall in El Pueblo
Italian Hall
C/o Historic Italian Hall Foundation
(El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historical Monument)
125 Paseo de la Plaza
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Tel: 323-257-9400
Fax: 323-256-1383
Nick Costantini President: ndcosta@aol.com

(DVD video of the dedication of Mille Grazie Wall and history of the Historic Italian Hall and Museum, Italian Hall, P.O., Box 92465, Pasadena, CA 91109)

Italian American Club
1903 S. Cabrillo Ave. (at 19th)
San Pedro, CA
Tel: (310) 831-3183

Garibaldina Society
4533 N. Figueroa
Los Angeles, CA

Orange County American Italian Renaissance Foundation
1950 Old Tustin Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92705
Tel: (714) 836-4655
Fax: (714) 550-9234…

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Media

A Bit of History: The only Italian newspaper on the West Coast, since 1908: L’Italo-Americano was founded in 1908 by Gabriello Spini, a learned Florentine, who wanted to “Inform, Unite and Assist” the rising Italian American community of Los Angeles. In 1924 Cleto Baroni, Spini’s nephew, became Associate Editor, and in 1933 assumed sole ownership and editorial responsibility of L’Italo-Americano directing its destiny single-handedly for 38 years. In 1963 Gabriello Spini died at age 89.

Mr. Baroni, to ensure stability of service, sold L’Italo-Americano (1971) to The Fathers of St. Charles (Scalabrinians) and Fr. Mario Trecco became the new editor of the newspaper. [Ö] in 1980 L’Italo-Americano acquired L’Eco d’Italia of San Francisco and became the only Italian newspaper on the West Coast. Two years later, Cleto Baroni died at age 85, after 65 years of service to the newspaper.

In 1983 L’Italo-Americano celebrated its diamond jubilee and in1986 acquired a more modern look by going tabloid size. Trecco remained in charge of L’Italo-Americano until 1990 when Fr. Augusto Feccia became its new editor. [Ö] In 1998 Fr. Feccia relinquished the position of editor to Fr. Ermete Nazzani. [Ö] The Fathers of Saint Charles in 1999 sold L’Italo-Americano to Mr. Mario Trecco, who became its sole owner and director. As of July 1, 2004 L’Italo-Americano became the property of L’Italo American Foundation, under the direction of Head Publisher Robert Barbera. Mario Trecco remains the editor of the newspaper.…

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Pan-Italian Clubs

Italian American Club of San Pedro
with the newly-dedicated “Via Italia”
street sign in front
Garibaldina M.B. Society (Est. 1877, merged 1888)
Società Garibaldina di Mutua Beneficenza
4533 N. Figueroa
Los Angeles, CA

The Society went co-ed in 1945.
Italian American Club
1903 S. Cabrillo Ave.
San Pedro, CA
Tel: (310) 831-3183

California Italian American Foundation
Pres.: Giuseppe Catalano
Tel: (310) 493-0292

Circolo A.L.I.
Pres.: Anna Riggs
Tel: (661) 259-2075

Club Italia
Pres.: Attilo Micale
C/o Casa Italiana

Columbus Explorers
Pres.: Frank Claro
Tel: (626) 288-2026

COM.IT.ES.(Comitato degli italiani residenti all’estero)
Pres.: Giovanni Zuccarello
Tel: (818) 787-1696
http://www.comitesla.org/

See: INSTITUTIONS, Civic

Italian American Club of San Pedro
Pres.: Grace Ciolino
Tel: (310) 548-8447

South Bay Italian Club
Pres.: Carmela Funicello
Tel: (310) 547-5807

A Bit of History: The Garibaldina Society:the Oldest Italian Association in Los Angeles. The Garibaldina formed in 1888 (merging in 1916 with the Italian Mutual Benevolence Society, founded in1877) is the oldest Italian association in Southern California. It held regular meetings in the Italian Hall (Pueblo of Los Angeles), build in 1907, as a social center for the Italian community.
See: HISTORY, El Pueblo.
See: Italian Hall: http://firehousejailmuseum.tripod.com/hihf/id2.html .
Read more about the Garibaldina and the history of the early Italian settlement: Gloria Ricci Lothrop, Italians of Los Angeles , Historical Society of Southern California, 2003.

A Bit of History: DB Club (Dago Bastards Club), San Pedro. Rumorhas it that an informal group of old-time Italians, largely fisherman, from San Pedro, banded together and called themselves the “Dago Bastards.” (“Dago” was one of the derogatory terms used for Italians in the early days of immigration; see John Fante’s collection of short stories: Dago Red, 1940; see: WRITERS). Read more about John Royal (Giovanni Reale) and the DB Club in: Old Ties, New Attachments: Italian-American Folklife in the West, edited by David A. Taylor, John Alexander Williams, Library of Congress, 1992.…

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